A Review of Techniques for Transplantation of Turtle Grass Thalassia Testudinum
Past: Anthony Calfo
For some years now, private aquarists take begun to realize success with the culture of truthful, vascular, marine plants. While the number of flowering species available in the hobby is rather small, their natural distribution on or about coral reefs is quite great! Some can be found budgeted the deepest range of photosynthetic life in the bounding main, while others occur inside the outset few meters of the surface.
These plants live in a wide range of conditions as well, from cold temperate seas through to warm tropical waters. Still for all the geographical differences between them, they have many mutual traits in husbandry and handling that make their care in aquaria a very straightforward endeavor. For the purpose of this article, the focus will be on genera that nosotros commonly phone call "seagrass", although other marine plants such equally Rhizophora (Cerise Mangrove) and Halophila (Paddleweed) share similar needs, benefits and purpose in aquaria.
There are even some interesting brackish species similar Ruppia maritima (Beaked Tasselweed) that are both interesting and hardy, ranging from fresh to full seawater. A closer look at coastal waters and table salt marshes volition reveal quite a number of other candidates to y'all for aquarium use. And with the increased application of refugiums and natural filtration strategies, our appreciation of marine plants will grow stronger in fourth dimension!
Best Bets:
For American aquarists, the well-nigh familiar seagrass is Thalassia testudinum, collected from Atlantic waters, although imports (seeds) from islands in the Tropical Pacific (such as Fiji) do make seasonal appearances. This species, Thalassia hemprichii, is widely distributed – including the Philippines. Either species is suitable for aquarium use, largely practise to the sturdy form (reasonably hardy to handle and prune) as well as modest maximum size; they can be cropped nicely at 12″/30 cm. Blades are flat and wide (1/two″/12 mm.) and can reach ane meter in height, although less than one-half of that is more than common. Thalassia produces the largest flowers (pale white/pink) and seeds of all the currently kept seagrasses.
"Manatee grass", Syringodium filiforme, can exist found in many of the same regions of the Atlantic/Caribbean as Thalassia. They also make their mode into the US hobby. A Pacific species, Due south. isoetifolium, occurs in Commonwealth of australia and New Zealand waters. Although hardy plenty to plant and civilization, this genus is slightly more challenging to keep by private aquarists if simply for their need for very large, tall tanks (towards i 1000 in height) and the significant hardware (large, expensive pumps) needed to produce adequate h2o menstruum in such vessels. Like Turtle grass, Manatee grass requires regular cropping of the blade tops to foreclose overgrowth, disease or infection. "Blades" of manatee grass are tubular or cylindrical in nature. The flowers are very small, inconspicuous and tedious to announced in home grown colonies.
Zostera marina, "Eelgrass", looks very similar to Syringodium, but is impractical for coincidental reef aquarists due to its cool h2o needs. In signal of fact, still, information technology is a expert candidate for cultivation in temperate displays for dedicated hobbyists keeping biotopes, for example. Some public aquariums have used this relatively hardy species for unique Eastern Pacific exhibits. This seagrass naturally occurs in deeper, calmer waters, which translates well in typical dwelling aquaria that usually lack acceptable light or water move. Zostera is usually found merely beneath the intertidal zone. Sexual reproduction (and flowering) in this establish seems to be influenced by warmer water temperatures and, as such, may limit propagation strategies and dispersal in cooler climes. Every bit an interesting aside, this plant is quite edible and was consumed by Native American (Indian) littoral peoples.
Although hardly seen in the hobby, Shoal (Ocean)grass, Halodule, is a very appealing genus for aquarium apply. Its benefits include small size (more narrow blades than Thalassia and almost are short at 4″/ten cm tall or less), and rather weak root system. What this means for aquarists is that large, deep sand beds (> six″/15 cm.) are not so critical for success as it is with the other seagrasses. Halodule has much entreatment for smaller refugiums and home-sized lagoonal displays. Specimens collected in the Atlantic (H. beaudettei) occur in very shallow water and tolerate a wide range of salinity. I do hope nosotros meet more than of this and like species in the hobby before long.
For aquarists searching for these plants and other uncommon creatures, it has been a fleck of a claiming to date. As the popularity of keeping such organisms grows, so too will support from merchants. For some of these and more, there'due south a good chap at www.billsreef.com who can help yous with his experience as a lifetime marine biologist besides every bit dedicated hobby mentor and volunteer.
The root systems of seagrasses are very delicate! Never push specimens into the sand to plant, but dig a pigsty and bury them gently. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo
I of the biggest challenges to keeping seagrasses is getting healthy starters! The rhizomes/"roots" of these plants are somewhat to very sensitive to being disturbed. The very best mode to transplant seagrass is to dig deep and around a patch, to be taken whole as a "plug" with undisturbed roots and substrate together. For shipping, however, this is too difficult and too expensive (the heavy weight of muddy substrates and the postage to evangelize it). Information technology is inevitable that we must accept starters as "bare root" specimens in most cases. If shopping on sight, select pieces with the longest, unbroken rhizomes.
At all stages of transit, be very gentle with the runners/roots. You will notice that the roots may take an offensive (sulfur) odor from the muddy, anoxic substrates they are harvested from. This is no cause for concern. But it should remind you about the need for like (mature, food rich) substrates in aquaria. More than about this below.
Planting seagrass is a sensitive affair just the aforementioned. They generally must be rooted at corking depth. Arguably, anything less than 6″/15 cm. of substrate is non enough for long term success. By comparison, consider the potting needs of a one-iii feet tall houseplant! Yes… seagrasses need tall tanks and deep fine substrates. Oolitic sand can be used alone if it is very mature (over one year established). Simply a mix of mud and fine sand (sugar-fine aragonite) may be best overall. I recommend a bed depth of at least six″/15 cm., and preferably substrates budgeted 12″/xxx cm. for long term success.
The depth of the aquarium is somewhat more flexible, simply a water depth of 24″/50 cm. above the sand is a fair minimum. Note: Halophila, Ruppia and Halodule are exceptions amid marine plants; they tolerate shallower substrates and less deep water.
Never button a seagrass pod or cluster direct into the sand; driving it forcibly into the substrate can damage the crown or roots, which may exist fatal for the specimen! Instead, always dig a pit and so gently lay the pod or cluster down inside earlier covering the roots gently. It is of import to notation that almost seagrasses need to be planted rather deep into the new substrate. About 3″/7.5 cm. minimum below the surface of the substrate is recommended. Annihilation less reduces the likelihood of a successful transplant.
Seagrasses transplanted from the wild volition mostly lose their original (shipped) leaves in the ensuing weeks and months. This is very normal and is normally observed in other aquatic plants after a modify in light or water depth. In some cases, the plant appears to die back completely with no sign of life for many months. But later on five months or even longer, the roots may sprout anew! Leave the rhizomes buried fifty-fifty after the blades have died back with hope for such recovery.
Deep, fine, soft substrates are best for seagrasses. Six inches (15 cm.) is the minimum recommended depth. Add together mud for ameliorate results. Film and Caption past Anthony Calfo
Husbandry:
Every bit mentioned above, a food rich substrate is necessary for all-time success with seagrasses. If you ever go the chance to dig effectually in the substrates of a seagrass meadow, you will capeesh this intimately. A bit besides intimately… bring nose plugs! Using mud in a fine sand mix is helpful, but patience and time is the all-time recipe for success here. Plumb the seagrass aquarium inline with the residue of the aquarium organization and let the substrate to mature for at to the lowest degree 6 months. Twelve months or more than is better. Fertilization of the roots may exist helpful, but must be done carefully (pocket-sized, weak doses). Aquatic plants and algae are unique in that they do not depend on substrates similar terrestrial plants do for their primary food base. Aquatics can depict such elements through their stems and leaves too.
Be sure to provide very stiff water flow. If possible, generate surge-style flow to help thrash and wash sediments and epiphytic matter off the seagrasses (this launder is very good thing for filter feeders!). You will likely need to use some gastropods or fishes to rasp the leaves of seagrass for improved health and vigor. Trim dead or dying tips off actively. One of the theories revolving around seagrass diseases in places around the world is that larger grazing animals such as turtles and manatees have been overfished. Some such large herbivores are active grazers on seagrass, but dwindling numbers of these creatures in recent centuries has led to overgrowth of the plants. Overgrowth stifles vigor and water catamenia and increases the chance of affliction. Prune your seagrasses actively (monthly). This is non only a means of food export, but information technology stimulates health and vigor exactly equally it does in terrestrial plants!
Lighting varies past species, but by and large speaking… brilliant warm daylight is all-time for seagrass species. A minimum of 5 watts per gallon of 4000-7000K lamp color over aquaria less than 30″/75 cm in height is a good starting point. Excessively blue spectrums will handicap the growth of most mutual seagrass species. Wait for lamps that have a high CRI rating besides (over 90 ideally). You tin observe inexpensive and useful plant-suitable lamps and fixtures at the local DIY home store (lumber and hardware store). A search of reef hobby message boards will often pb to specific brand and model recommendations for stores in your area. Aquarium-specific lighting, although more expensive, is by and large best of all though. Daylight temperature metal halides will more often than not support the fastest growth of shallow water species.
If the seagrass display is to keep cnidarian animals, lamp temperatures closer to ten, 000K are acceptable and mayhap preferable, depending on the needs of the species kept. Seagrasses will nevertheless abound very well under such "10k" calorie-free. If nothing else, the bluer low-cal is aesthetically more attractive to most people.
Why Keep Seagrasses:
There are many reasons for keeping seagrass displays and refugiums. Studying these unique plants helps u.s.a. run across the much broader moving picture of how expansive reef communities really are. Specific biotopes like seagrass meadows and mangrove swamps play crucial roles in the overall support and survival of coastal and reef ecosystems. They bring many of these benefits to aquarium culture as well. Just like desirable algae species, seagrasses trap and utilize nutrients similar phosphate and nitrate. In fixing these compounds, they improve water quality and serve equally a vehicle for nutrient recycling when eaten by creatures, or food export when harvested out of the sea or aquarium. The very surface of grass blades is a living substrate for the cultivation of epiphytic matter that gets liberated with surging water menstruation and rasping herbivores. Some species of cnidarians, like complimentary-living Goniopora, take been linked to seagrass meadows with an implicated demand for the human relationship and proximity of the plants for health/survival. Of perhaps worthy anecdotal mention: the writer'southward own best success, similar that of some other aquarists, with Goniopora stokesi living for many years and reproducing by numerous daughter satellites accept all been in the company of seagrasses.
Many, many years agone… i of the author's 240 gallon seagrass refugiums with free-living, reproducing Goniopora stokesi in residence. Picture past Bob Fenner, Caption past Anthony Calfo
Seagrass exhibits also beget more natural and successful displays of lagoonal species of fishes and other reef creatures. Syngnathids (pipefish and seahorses) practise remarkably well in seagrass systems for having behavioral enrichment likewise as matrices and substrates for cultivating more natural prey such equally copepods. Some anemones, jellyfishes and Fungiid corals, for example, are displayed more naturally in lagoonal displays.
Seagrass habitats in the wild are largely in need of protection. To do this successfully, we must report and understand the organisms. Aquarists can contribute to this understanding and conservation by learning to successfully civilisation seagrasses and the natural species they support, and sharing results with the aquatic science community of hobbyists and academics at large.
With kindest regards,
Anthony Calfo
Bibliography and Recommended Reading:
Littlers, Diane and Mark, 1989 Smithsonian Institution Printing.
http://www.sheddaquarium.org/bounding main/fact_sheets.cfm?id=112
http://www.ukmarinesac.org.britain/communities/zostera/z3_1.htm
Source: http://www.reefland.com/2012/07/19/beautiful-seagrasses-keeping-true-flowering-plants-in-your-marine-aquarium/
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